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Install wall shelves to lath and plaster4/10/2024 ![]() ![]() I did find someone who offered to drill the holes in the shelves in their shop with a big drill press, if we get really stuck. The wall is closed also, but obviously we could open up parts to expose the studs if need be. The shelves are completely solid (we had planned on drilling 9 inches deep into them to make tunnels for the rods to slip into). Is the back open at all or is it banded/solid all around? Regarding the angle brackets suggestion: are these special brackets, or something you can get off the rack? We had considered having brackets made by welding steel rod onto railing, but nixed the idea due to costs and time constraints. The only way to attach them is along the wall running directly behind them. To answer other questions: there are no walls on either side of the shelves. I *wish* we had gone the torsion box route, but it was not my choice and it is too late now. Unfortunately, the torsion box method is not an option the shelves were custom-milled and have already been delivered. Although I would opt for the torsion box method mentioned above. If you have a horizontal boring machine you could start the holes in the shelves with that then finish them by hand. I use lag bolts, pre-drill as straight as you can, drive the lags as far in as you want, cut off the heads, then use a piece of pipe to bend them perfectly level and square to the wall. ![]() You don't have to drill perfectly straight into the studs. You can probably still find Ian Kirby's articles on them in Fine Woodworking archives. The torsion box is extremely strong but lightweight and you can make them in whatever dimensions you need. ![]() Does either the left or right touch a wall?ĭoes the shelf have to be solid oak? You could build a torsion box with oak veneer and lag screw it to the wall. I have a couple methods of doing this, but I need to know the maximum weight. (1 1/2" thickness = 2 x 5/8" faces with 1/4" thick spacers) The bracket leg sticking out into the room slides into a slot in the edge of the shelf which is miraculously formed by laying the shelf up with a hollow space in the center. I usually get around this situation by cutting a slot in the drywall over each stud and screwing on a massive steel angle bracket. I wouldn't wish drilling a 9" deep hole 7/8" bore into a 1 1/2" thick edge on anyone. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) What kind of drill bit would you recommend for drilling the studs?įinally, I am aware that there are blind shelf supports available at Lee Valley and Hafele, but unfortunately they are not long enough for this application (only 5 inches long, not enough to support a 12 inch deep shelf that has to take a fair amount of weight). We have a drill guide and a 10 inch Forstner drill bit that is 7/8 in diameter to make the holes in the shelves. I am most concerned about being able to drill perfectly straight into the studs, and also perfectly straight through the shelves (to a depth of 9 to 10 inches). There are 3 studs behind the shelves that we can use to anchor the rods. We also planned to use Liquid Nails inside the holes in the shelves. ![]() Our tentative plan is to use 12-inch x 5/8 inch steel threaded rod to support the shelves by screwing the rods about 3 inches into the studs, and then sliding the shelves (with holes drilled in them to correspond to the rods) onto the rods. The surface is drywall and the wall is finished, not open. They need to be able to support plates and glasses, so assume a fair amount of weight. They are 60 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 1.5 inches thick in solid oak, so they are pretty heavy. We are in the process of installing floating shelves in a kitchen. ![]()
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